Threads of life: Weaving as Living Heritage Accross Africa

In many conversations, Africa’s rich textile traditions are framed as “art”—a label that often places them on a pedestal, separating them from the communities and daily realities that give them life. This perspective is a colonial hangover, one that seeks to categorize and commodify rather than understand. To decolonize our view is to see weaving for what it truly is: a vital, dynamic system of knowledge, a cornerstone of identity, and a practical technology woven into the fabric of everyday life. This is not about art for art’s sake; it is about heritage in action.

The Tellem Legacy: A Foundation in Practice

Our work is deeply inspired by the Tellem people of the Bandiagara Escarpment. Often referenced in art history, their true legacy is one of ingenious practicality. Centuries ago, they mastered strip-weaving, an efficient method of creating narrow bands of patterned cloth later joined into larger pieces. This was not merely decorative; it was a brilliant adaptation to their environment and resources, producing durable textiles integral to daily and ritual life. For us, specializing in Tellem-inspired fabrics is about honoring this foundational problem-solving ingenuity—the very bedrock of textile heritage that prioritizes utility, community knowledge, and sustainability over mere aesthetics.

A Continent Woven into the Everyday

To move beyond the well-documented West African canon is to discover a continent where the loom, the spindle, and the weaving coil are tools of life. Here are glimpses into the living traditions you wished to highlight:

East Africa: Weaving as Social Fabric

· Ethiopia & Eritrea: Here, weaving is not a sidelined craft but an active economic and cultural pillar. The Shemena (or Shemma) industry represents one of the country’s most important non-agricultural income sources. Using traditional two-pedal looms, the rhythmic, dance-like process of creating Netela shawls and Gabbi cloth is a widespread skill. These textiles are markers of identity, social status, and history, worn daily by millions.
· Somalia: Weaving was traditionally a nomadic craft, perfectly adapted to a mobile lifestyle. The creation of the Alindi (sarong) and Garbasaar (headscarf) from local materials was a necessary and deeply integrated skill for managing life on the move.

Southern Africa: Coiled Knowledge for Home and Harvest

· Zambia & Zimbabwe (Tonga Basketry): For the Tonga people, basketry is agriculture, storage, and economics. Women weave intricate, coiled baskets from ilala palm for winnowing grain (chisuwo), storing seeds (nsangwa), and carrying goods. This craft, passed matrilineally, was a form of resilience after the colonial-era displacement caused by the Kariba Dam, adapting to new environments while preserving core knowledge. The patterns—like popolofwa (butterfly wings) or nyenyezi (stars)—encode elements of Tonga life.

The Island of Madagascar: Cloth of Life and Transition

· Madagascar’s Lamba: The Lamba is the ultimate multi-purpose textile, defying singular categorization. Woven by women on ground looms, it is daily wear, a baby carrier, a cushion for heavy loads, and a sacred vessel for ritual. Crucially, the heavy silk Lambamena is used to wrap the deceased, connecting the cloth directly to ancestry and transition. From daily chore to diplomatic gift (as famously given to a U.S. president), the Lamba embodies life’s full spectrum.

Reclaiming the Narrative: A Decolonizing Perspective

A decolonizing approach to these traditions requires active re-framing:

· From Artifact to Active Knowledge: We must stop viewing these items as finished “artifacts” and see them as embodiments of living processes—mathematical precision, ecological understanding of dyes and fibers, and intergenerational teaching.
· Challenging the “African Print” Paradigm: It is crucial to distinguish authentic, locally developed techniques like Tellem strip-weaving or Tonga coiling from globally marketed “African prints,” which often have European colonial origins. The former are knowledge systems; the latter were often tools of trade and cultural dilution.
· Centering Community and Continuity: As seen in Ethiopian Shemena or Tonga basketry, weaving is often a collective, community-sustaining practice. It provides vital income, especially for women, and strengthens social bonds. The disruption of these practices, as with the Tonga displacement, is a direct cultural injury.

Weaving the Past into Present Practice

At our shop, we believe that to engage with these patterns is to connect with this continuum of knowledge. Our weaving patterns for sale are more than instructions; they are invitations to participate in a legacy of practical creativity. By learning the structures behind a Tellem-inspired strip or a geometric motif from the Horn of Africa, you are not just making a decoration—you are weaving a thread into the vast, resilient, and ongoing tapestry of African heritage.

Explore our collection of patterns to begin your own journey into the living heritage of African weaving.